Les Carroz in the Grand Massif has come up with a unique package to help visiting skiers and snowboarders get the most from their trip. Petra Shepherd went to ski with the boss to find out what it’s all about.
What makes a great ski holiday? Good snow conditions, sunshine, a plethora of delicious mountain restaurants and a large ski area with plenty of runs are all a given, all of which the French resort of Les Carroz in the Grand Massif has in spades.
ON PISTE: Petra and ‘The Boss‘
However, what often makes a holiday that little bit more memorable are the characters you meet and the experiences you enjoy with them. On a recent visit to Les Carroz I got to enjoy two unique activities, a VIP Ski Experience, skiing with the boss and an evening snowshoe walk for a fondu in a teepee. In so doing I got to spend time with the delightful head of the local tourist board Philippe Poettoz – ‘the boss’ – and to be entertained by the charming and if I’m completely honest a little mad, chief trapper, snow shoe leader and ultimate fondue maker Martial.
Les Carroz is part of the Grand Massif ski area, the fourth biggest ski area in France, with 139 slopes and 62 ski lifts. What better way to explore this impressive area made up of Les Carroz, Flaine, Sixt, Samoens and Morillon, than with someone who knows it better than most.
In his mid-50s, Philippe Poettoz, the head of the tourist board was born in Les Carroz and is an expert on every run, every bump, twist and turn and the sunniest and most snow sure slopes. The ‘Ski with the Boss’ package, unique to Les Carroz and launched two years ago, starts from €219 per person and includes eight nights’ accommodation, 40 % off a Grand Massif ski pass, free ski lockers and two hours VIP Skiing with either Philippe or Olivier Buloz, the ESF Director or Adrien Dauve, the Les Carroz ski area director.
I ask Philippe why he does it, laughing he replies it’s an excuse for him to ski and get out the office. He’s also a passionate advocate for the resort and delighted that he gets to share his knowledge of the best pistes, best panoramic views, secret tracks, best places to eat and the history of the resort he calls home. On top of which you get priority access to the chairlifts! Philippe skis fast and well, so if like me you’re a relatively confident intermediate skier and the conditions are good, you’ll get to cover a lot of ground.
Les Carroz is a lovely ski area, with a wide range of skiing for all standards, including moguls, powder, off piste and picturesque tree lined slopes back to the heart of the village. Philippe’s favourite run is Serpentine a blue down into neighbouring Flaine. I was able to experience it with him before heading back into Les Carroz for lunch on the slopes at Le K (not included in the package but like every true Frenchman everything stops for lunch). A waiter was summoned to take our wine order before we’d even sat down (no dry January in this part of the Alps). For lunch we sampled the local speciality, Farcement, a dish of potatoes, bacon, onions, raisins and plumbs, an unusual combination and probably safer to stick to Tartiflette.
When it comes to big personalities and sheer bon viveurness (if such a word exists) Philippe has stiff competition from Martial and his night snowshoeing walk for dinner in a teepee. With his Davy Crockett hat and checked lumberjack shirt, Martial looks every inch the trapper. I on the other hand am accused of being Cinderella, needing help to put on my shoes.
WALKING HOME: A torchlit snowshoe walk after a fondu in a teepee
Walking on snow shoes, is like walking with flip flops, you soon get the hang of it and the nocturnal walk through the Molliets forest is magical, the only sound is the crunch of your snowshoes on fresh snow, the only light is that of the stars. Martial points out red squirrel tracks and where pine-martins have skipped across the snow, our destination is his real Indian teepee where a gourmet surprise awaits.
I’ve had many a fondu but not one that’s made entirely from scratch in front of you (garlic, four types of cheese, good local wine and a bit of magic) in what is essentially a witch’s cauldron over an open fire. Everyone helps to keep the flames going as Martial, a pyromaniac glint in his eye continuously splits wood and doesn’t stop talking or offering instructions. Apparently, the correct way of dipping is to fold the bread in half, pierce through with a fondu fork, go to one end of the bowl, bring towards you, lift, circle for 360 degrees three times and then eat.
FIRE SIDE: Enjoy a home made fondu in a real Indian teepee
He tells us that ‘The first one to drop their bread needs to strip naked and run around the teepee’ but very soon the fondu represents a bread cheese soup or stew. It’s a totally authentic experience (no tables or toilet facilities), just wooden chairs around a fire, stories shared and new friendships made, especially when Martial produces his two home-made liqueurs, imaginatively called William Shakespear (Pear) and Prunes Springsteen (prune). I remember very little of the torch lit walk home.
Les Carroz, with over a century of skiing history, is relatively well known, particularly amongst Brits and families. However, for a novel way of experiencing the Grand Massif combined with some lively conversation and company, I can highly recommend the ‘Ski with the boss’ package. The snowshoe walk with teepee evening was another wonderful if somewhat eccentric experience and the two of them combined made what could have been a standard ski break, a great ski holiday.
TRAVEL FACTS
Petra Shepherd flew to Geneva from London Gatwick with Easyjet https://www.easyjet.com/en
Les Carroz is a one hour drive from Geneva Airport. There are two transfer companies: Ski Set Transfer and Go Massif. From €30 one way
Snowshoeing by night followed by dinner in a tepee with Martial (local saucissons, cheese fondue, marshmallows and Savoie wines and digestives) €45 per person
Petra stayed at CHG Les Carroz : www.cgh-residences.co.uk/winter/residences/les-chalets-de-leana-36
For further information on Les Carroz visit www.lescarroz.com/en/
DAYS GONE BY: Les Carroz has a long history of skiing
Categories: France