Blair Aitken, the founder of British Backcountry, extols the virtues of getting away from it all by ski touring in the Scottish Highlands
It’s March 2020 and I’m leading my British Backcountry group of ski tourers up Meall nan Tarmachan, on the Ben Lawers range. The sky is a deep blue, the air is still, and the snow is down to road level.
With skins attached to the skis we weave our way up through the lower slopes, snaking around the high banks of heather, following the steam lines that are laden with snow and scoping out good descents for the return at the end of the day. As we climb, the cover improves and the slopes open up.
Covid precautions means we maintain the two metres apart rules, but fortunately, ski touring is a sport where you can spread out. We have not had to endure any lift lines and there’s no marked area where you must descend. There is space for everyone.
Once on the ridge we need to decide whether to head for the summit and tackle the upper Coire or start with something easier. Having only worked with half the group previously I opt for the latter. We set our sights on the village of Killin and I guide the group into the mellow bowls below. This is Scottish skiing at its best, forgiving transformed corn snow, enormous views across Loch Tay and the lush green valley adjacent; and a descent that goes a little bit further than expected with every passing bend.
The last turn of the morning is squeezed out and it’s time for lunch before a skin back up. The conversation turns to the season so far, and to what will happen next. Covid is coming, that much is clear. But there is so much snow! And after such a poor January it is almost unbelievable that we might not get to enjoy it!
We’ve had a surge in bookings for ski touring as people look for options closer to home. The Scottish resorts have seen a brief change of fortune. The ski area of Glenshee hosts a Ski Test, Glencoe offers skiing back to the car park; Cairngorm has full cover; Nevis Range finally shows promise of adventures into the Backcorries, and the Lecht is buzzing with newcomers learning the craft.
Scotland has many grade one climbing gullies that can be skied if you have the right skill set
For the ski tourer (or splitboarder) the resorts all offer good access to backcountry snowsports. For me, and many others, ski touring is about finding wide open spaces and seeking the feeling of remoteness, using the skis as tools to travel.
And so, we seek out high roads (like Drummochter) for starting points, Munros that have caught snow from the prevailing wind, and loaded gullies that will offer experiences well in the late spring and summer.
The craft of the ski tourer is knowing where to be and when to be there. Weather reports from Mountain Weather Information Service and MET office, avalanche forecasts from the Scottish Avalanche Information Service, recent posts on the British Backcountry Facebook group, Harveys and OS maps, guidebooks and Walk Highlands must all be studied.
In Scotland we chase winter, not choosing a venue until a week before – and even then, changing plans when forecasts are updated.
Blair and Gavin
This is how Gavin Carruthers and I work at British Backcountry, and this is why on this particular day we are on the Ben Lawers Range – one of the finest areas for touring in the country, when conditions are right.
At the top of the first ‘skin’ we start to see other ski tourers. Overseas travel restrictions mean more skiers are heading for the highlands and I can tell by the accents that it is unlikely all of the other groups are local.
We press on and sniff out a second cruisy line, this time passing under the imposing South face. We pause as a duo of steep skiers pick their way down an impressive gully, letting the skis run towards the bottom. Buzzing they high five and whoop. This is the other side of Scottish skiing and it’s world class – the country is riddled with grade one climbing gullies that can be skied if you have the right skill set. The gullies get loaded throughout the season and, once stable, can offer sport well into the summer.
We continue our second line of the day, a more direct descent following a torrent of water that cascades down numerous waterfalls.
We eventually ski back to the carpark and looking back we see a beautiful pattern – the zig-zagging of kick turns going up and our flowing S shaped tracks back down.
That’s my group session over for the day, but as I look back at Meall Nan Tarmachan basking in the low afternoon sun, conditions are so good I decide to make another ascent on the North Face of the Mountain.
After moving my van to another location, I start making my preparations and startle a stag, so pause to let it know I am no threat. Daylight is running out, so I start to jog, enjoying the lightweight Atomic Backland boots and skis. Ski touring equipment is one of the few areas of growth in snowsports equipment sales and it has improved significantly in the 20 years I have been touring.
It’s now possible to have light weight boots, bindings and skis without compromising on performance. A good pin binding makes the movement of walking (or even running) up a hill smooth and natural.
I reach the top in time to enjoy the sunset and I have 500 vertical metres of spring snow below me. I start my descent and scan ahead for shapes to play with and the space all around me. For many piste skiers the length of the ascent compared with what can sometimes be a fairly brief descent makes no sense. But you value it more than when riding lifts all day. It also helps if you like the ‘up’ – which I do!
I am back in the van driving down the road and my phone picks up reception again. I park up as I’m also keen to check the weather for tomorrow. A message from Gavin appears – ‘tomorrow is cancelled, bars and hotels shutting soon, head home’.
I should have felt fortunate, I had just shared one of the best days of the season with my group, but selfishly I felt cheated. March is often when the season really starts in Scotland. Soon I would see the bigger picture and appreciate that it was a privilege to have had this day at all.
Six months later and we are in much the same position. There is an excitement around backcountry snowsports, and in particular Scotland.
This is understandable. You can stay in the UK and you can enjoy your sport in wide open spaces. As long as you don’t have to get too close in a car park, social distancing is not going to be a problem! The new craft of planning the perfect day includes: weather, avalanche, route selection, and now Covid guidelines!
If you can make the trip to the mountains this winter don’t be too set on one location, don’t even be too set on one activity – bring the bike as well as the skis! And remember to enjoy the moment when it all comes together as you never know what will happen next.
* Blair Aitken is the founder of British Backcountry. Blair and his business partner Gavin Carruthers deliver ski touring courses, skills workshops and more challenging backcountry days in the Scottish Highlands. Blair has been ski touring in Scotland and the Alpes for over 20 years and previously ran New Generation Snowsports School in Val d’Isere.
For more information go to: www.british-backcountry.com
Ellis Brigham produces its own Backcountry Skiing Magazine which you can see online at:
The latest issue contains a feature on six epic backcountry descents in Scotland.
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