GONE FISHING: Mark Nicholls waits for a bite… to eat
Mark Nicholls took a break from skiing in the Swiss resort of Melchsee-Frutt to try his hand at ice fishing
As a teenager, Gusti Berchtold was quick – quick enough to make his regional Swiss ski team.
Downhill, slalom and super-G were all part of his race repertoire but nowadays, you’ll find him taking life at a slower pace though still surrounded by the picturesque slopes of Melchsee-Frutt. He is the resort’s ice fishing guide, or as Swiss Tourism call him, Mr Fish.
Ice fishing is as simple as drilling a hole and dangling a line through the ice to tempt the fish in the freezing waters below. Being successful, however, is more of an art.
After meeting at the Fischputz Station and picking up rods, ice drills and shovels, I join an enthusiastic group of novice ice fishers, strap on snow shoes and trudge across the frozen Lake Melchsee to pick a spot.
BAITED BREATH: ‘Mr ‘Fish’ prepares an ice hole
Urging us to see ice fishing as an adventure, where we may actually catch something to eat (having been promised that our hotel chef would cook whatever we net), Gusti gives us a demonstration.
We watch as he shovels away several inches of snow, then drills through the ice with a long red-handled implement, before clearing the hole of ice residue so it doesn’t re-freeze.
Having, then less expertly prepared my own ice-hole, I drop my line through the hole with a lure on the end (sometimes worms are used as bait), allow it to drift down to the bottom and then wind the line back in a few turns.
I wait. As feared, nothing happens.
The lake is 6m deep and stocked with Char and Trout. To fish requires a licence, which costs CHF 55 (about £40) and includes guidance, tuition, and permits the catching and keeping of up to five fish a day.
Having failed to catch anything, I seek solace in the hot tea from my flask and admire the setting; a fabulous panorama of ski runs, a tiny church, and a cluster of hotels high in the mountains of the Lucerne region of Switzerland.
Thankfully, some among my group did catch fish – lovely Rainbow Trout – which were later prepared for us back at our hotel.
The previous day, having flown in to Geneva, I caught the train to Lucerne, took a connection to Samen and then the post-bus up to Stockalp at 1080m above sea level. The final leg of my journey to the Frutt Lodge and Spa at 1920m was via the gondola.
ON THE HOOK: The one that didn’t get away
Getting to the hotel is an adventure, though also straightforward too – you deposit your luggage at the bottom of the ski gondola in Stockalp and next see it in your room. Similarly, with your ski equipment, which is conveyed up the mountain and placed in the ski room at the hotel entrance. All very efficient and convenient.
Travelling in Switzerland is always a delight, and this journey, with the final stage up to Melchsee-Frutt via ski gondola from Stockalp, was fabulous; a magnificent finale matched only by the accommodation and views on arrival.
Frutt Lodge and Spa is homely and cosy, with oak-panelled rooms and huge windows that draw in the natural light and offer views over the lake or the mountains. It has the Titschli restaurant, a 900-square-metre pool and spa area and, importantly, easy access to the slopes…which after our morning of ice fishing, we were eager to experience.
The ski area of Melchsee-Frutt – 106km from Zurich Airport and 40km from Lucerne – is relatively compact. The 40km of pistes, served by 16 lifts, are ideal for families and beginners, but there is a variety of black, red and blue runs and you can ski all the way down to Stockalp.
Gusti, who still skis regularly, explained the resort has good skiing for beginners and families but also pointed to the faster and steeper slopes such as the run from Balmeregg at 2255m or down from Bonistock (2160m).
The hotel opened in 2011 with 67 rooms for adult guests but is linked by an underground tunnel to its sister residence, Frutt Family Lodge, with a further 47 rooms for families and its own spa, Lago Mediterranean restaurant, bowling alley, gym and cinema.
The main reception is grand with sofas and a fire, a bar with giant cowbells hanging overhead and a terrace.
The Titschli restaurant has a high-quality fine-dining menu, offers a superb breakfast and there is also an extensive wine menu, demonstrated once a week by sommelier Stephanie Mieth in an hour-long wine-tasting session of some of the Swiss and European wines on offer.
It is to accompany this wine tasting that the chef had cooked our trout…sadly, a mere snack rather than the intended supper for six!
LAKE VIEW: The Frutt Lodge and Spa at night
TRAVEL FACTS
Accommodation: Room rates at Frutt Lodge and Spa (www.fruttlodge.ch) start at CHF 228 a night (£180 or €213) for two guests, including breakfast and spa entry.
Ice fishing: Costs CHF 55, (teenagers CHF 40), rod rental CHF 10 a day, and snow shoe rental is CHF 15. Visit www.melchsee-frutt.ch/en/fishing/ice-fishing/
Ski pass: A one-day pass is CHF 55, a six-day pass is CHF 264.
Getting there: Swiss International Air Lines offers more than 150 weekly flights from London City, Heathrow, Gatwick, Manchester, Birmingham, Edinburgh to Zurich, Geneva or Sion, while the Swiss Travel System (www.swisstravelsystem.co.uk) provides a range of travel passes and tickets for visitors.
Melchsee-Frutt: For more information see www.melchsee-frutt.ch
Melchsee-Frutt has 40km of pistes, served by 16 lifts
Categories: Switzerland