PHOTO: Ski terrain above Nendaz
Mark Nicholls takes to the slopes in Nendaz at the ‘more affordable’ end of the 4 Vallees in Switzerland.
Unravel the ski map for the slopes above the Swiss resort of Nendaz and you will discover a wide snow-sure arena of challenging pistes.
More than half of the runs ‘glow’ deep red, matching the aura the setting sun creates on the surrounding peaks.
Sitting in the 4 Vallees ski area of 410km of slopes, with 53% of them designated red runs, the terrain is one of the appeals of Nendaz.
But as ski instructor Paul Bourban is quick to add: “Alongside those many red runs, there are also areas for family skiing as well as black runs and off-piste. Plus, it is a huge ski area, and one that is never as busy as Verbier.”
The nod to its glitzier neighbour is also a veiled way of highlighting that Nendaz – which incorporates Veysonnaz and Thyon – is also more affordable.
Wonderful panoramas
Bourban points to an extensive and uncrowded terrain full of surprises and altitude, with several of the surrounding peaks (Grand Combin, Rosablanche, La Ruinette and Mont-Fort) in the 3300m-4300m range. “Go up to the height of Mont-Fort for wonderful panoramas,” he advises. This is the thrilling end of the resort where the season lasts from November until April.
PHOTO: Zipwire departure from Mont-Fort
Once you leave Siviez, a busy interchange of gondolas and chairlifts, you reach Tortin, the gateway to Mont-Fort at 3330m above sea level, with the cable car from Col des Gentianes (2894m) bridging the final stretch to the summit.
From here, it’s a case of skiing down through challenging blacks and the mogul field on some of the steepest terrain in the Alps – or take the ‘quick’ route on the fabulous zip wire. I opted for the zip line. Strapped into a harness with an uninterrupted view of the valley and the Tortin Glacier below, I soon reached speeds of 100 kilometres per hour across the 1.4km to Les Gentianes and an altitude difference of 383m.
Exhilarating descents
While there are new lifts, including the Prarion-Tracouet eight-seater, you’ll also come across more traditional modes of mountain ascent.
Expect button lifts and T-bars as you head across the slopes, but don’t let that put you off because the gamut of reds, blues and blacks offer exhilarating descents for all ages.
For me, the appeal of Nendaz is this diversity of terrain. There’s always a black to step up to from reds for an adrenaline hit, or a blue to ease up a little.
And they’re spread over a large area around Siviez (1730m) to Combatseline (2238m) or Tracouet (2200m) with plenty of mountain huts, such as the cosy Bob’s Bar, to stop off for an ‘apres’ on the final run into Haute-Nendaz.
Winter activities
Mid-January conditions were perfect with blue skies, bright sunshine and uncrowded pistes. An additional appeal is the array of non-ski activities from tubing, snow touring, snow-shoe walks or winter hiking.
My day away from skiing was to take a winter walk with a difference via the Rando’Miam concept; a pre-booked self-guided tour that stops at different mountainside eateries for a starter, main and dessert to add a gourmet dimension to hiking.
Rando’Miam (from CHF45) is among 100km of marked hiking routes that meander alongside ski slopes, dive into the forest or follow a bisse, the historic waterways dug between the early 15th and late 19th centuries that irrigate this dryish area of Switzerland. There are snow shoe routes too.
PHOTO: Le Hameau de Tortin restaurant at the foot of Mont-Fort Cable Car
Our route from Siviez rose a manageable 300m and covered about five miles in total there and back.
First stop was La Tetine, a rustic hut alongside a blue slope where we sat outside to enjoy our starter: a platter of cheese and meat, or thick pumpkin soup and coffee and then onto the longest stretch up to Le Hameau de Tortin at 2050m near the Mont-Fort cable car for a main course.
The choice included spaghetti bolognese, fish and chips, soups and grilled chicken with vegetable and chips served buffet style.
The third and final leg saw us retrace our path toward Siviez for waffles at Bar Le Tipi, an atmospheric mountain hut centred around an Indian tipi and chuck waggon.
A stay with a difference
There’s an array of accommodation across the Nendaz area but a stay with a difference is offered at the MAD Retreat.
Set outside the main lift hub, yoga, meditation and breathing therapies are prime attractions, with a spa, steam room and pool, in mini chalet-style accommodation and vegetarian cuisine on the menu.
PHOTO: MAD Retreat chalet
Here, you’re likely to tuck into beetroot cream soup with winter veg, stuffed zucchini and Jerusalem artichoke, daal and mini naans; or wild rice and romanesco cabbage. Breakfast is bread, eggs, cheese, nuts, fruit, juices and cereals.
The chalets are based on mazots, the small farmhouses traditionally used by alpine farmers with cattle tethered on a lower floor and family accommodation above.
Skiing is still an option, but Wellness Manager Nino Briot emphasises that most guests arrive for relaxation, rejuvenation and to participate in classes.
“We have a passion about putting an ecological tone to the hotel,” she adds, “and that is seen with the vegetarian food and the ingredients we use.”
It is a place to find ‘me’ time: take a yoga or meditation course, relax in the spa, go for a solitary walk in woodlands and spend time indulging your senses.
“The idea is to create a luxury environment with a relaxing ambience,” says Nina. “We find that people understand and adore what we are trying to do.
“Some people also come to ski and spa, but when guests stay for a week we see a massive transformation in them and they seem to leave very relaxed.”
TRAVEL FACTS
FLIGHTS/TRAIN: Mark Nicholls flew from London Heathrow to Geneva with Swiss International Airlines, got a train from Geneva Airport to Sion using the Swiss Travel Pass and then took the bus up to Nendaz in the canton of Valais.
ACCOMMODATION: MAD Retreat (starting from CHF299/£268 a night per person including full board and courses).
Ski pass: A six-day adult ski pass for the 4 Vallees ski area (including Verbier) is CHF409.
Mont Fort Zip Line: Costs CHF45, visit nendaz.ch/montfort
Nendaz: visit nendaz.ch & visitvalais.ch
Rando’Miam: nendaz.ch/randomiamhiver
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Categories: Resort News & Reports, Switzerland