A reinstated morning flight from London City Airport makes a short break in Austria even more accessible. Mark Nicholls went for the skiing, and returned with plenty of memories to treasure
Austria’s Skicircus offers 408km of pistes. PHOTO: Skicircus/Lukas Pilz
It was cold as the horses trotted away from the small Advent Fair in the trees above Leogang. As they paused, steam swirled around these magnificent beasts, not unlike the smoky aura of an ancient locomotive slowing into a remote halt.
The whisps of snow as my companions and I rode up in the sleigh behind them had turned to large flakes. This was just what the folk of this SalzburgerLand community had ordered for the start of another ski season.
The snow in early December, supported by snow making machines, was enough to ensure most of the runs were open in the Skicircus region, and enabled the ski-in-ski-out hotels to live up to their claim.
Longest name
When it’s snowing, you can’t beat the romance of a horse-drawn sleigh-ride along the Schwarzleo valley to the very local, but atmospheric, Christmas market. It is located at one of SalzburgerLand’s oldest gold mines, with artisan stalls offering homemade goods, handicrafts and gifts.
Horse power and snow add to the romance of a sleigh ride
Traditional braziers roared away while we sipped gluhwein against the backdrop of a light-laded Christmas tree.
As a bonus, the flurries on the outward journey had turned into heavy falling flakes on the return, adding true romance to the sleigh-ride experience.
I’d joined a group that had set off from London City Airport early one Friday morning on BA’s reprised flight to Salzburg.
That meant, with the transfer to Leogang of just over an hour and a quick lunch, we were skiing on that same afternoon, dipping our toe into the Skicircus, which covers the ‘ski-area-with-the-longest name’ as the tourist board mantra goes – Saalbach-Hinterglemm-Leogang-Fieberbrunn.
Easy access
Hotel Forsthofgut at night
Leogang has become a familiar destination for me in recent years. It’s a good location with an impressive selection of accommodation and has easy access to the ski area, with the 7.15am Friday morning departure adding to that.
Our introductory, find-our-feet, runs of the Friday afternoon set us up or a full day’s skiing on the Saturday, followed by relaxation in the expansive spa area of the Naturhotel Forsthofgut Hotel in Leogang, where I stayed.
There was even time in the schedule for a few runs on Sunday morning before heading back to the airport.
As part of the Ski Circus area, Leogang has access to the full range of runs from blues, reds, blacks and free-riding, with an ultra-modern lift system, gastro huts, tobogganing trails and wellness facilities within the local hotels. It also has snowparks, cross-country skiing, snow-shoeing, and a natural ice rink.
Need a challenge?
The area – some 70km south-west of Salzburg – is so big, that it strays over into the Tirol with Fieberbrunn and there’s enough to keep even the most active of skiers happy for days. It covers 270km of piste but with links into the area covered by the Ski Alpin Card (€368 for seven days, or €66 a day) ultimately offers access to 408 km of pistes, and with 121 lifts is one of Austria’s largest ski zones.
For those with more time, set a day aside for The Challenge, a seven-hour 65km circuit within the Skicircus of 65km, 32 lifts, and a 12,400m altitude change.
What I like about the Skicircus are the mountain facilities – from large restaurants with Champagne menus through to rustic huts where you can get a warming bowl of goulash soup and be on you way again. The region has 60 cosy huts, some small and intimate, but all with a choice of cuisine that is alluring. For lunch, our group stopped by at Hendlfischerei for grilled chicken or fish, with bread and salad. You can also enjoy the Champagne and oysters welcome for €21.50, if you feel inclined.
Organic produce
Despite the flown-in oysters, the wider Saalfelden-Leogang area has a fine reputation for food, much of it organically produced within a relatively close radius and served in restaurants, mountain huts and hotels.
A witch’s hat is spellbinding
For a memorable dining experience, Hut-Essen at Priesteregg delivers. You can cook your own meat on a heated iron ‘witch’s hat’ at the table and accompany your pork and beef with garlic bread, salad and jacket potatoes.
We also enjoyed dinner at the Forsthofgut, a magnificent hotel which manages to combine families with adult guests with ease. In addition to breakfast, dinner, or an extensive tea (strudelTIME), all room rates include free childcare, a nursery lift pass for children up to five years old, and free toboggan hire for use on the hotel’s toboggan run.
Early departure
New visitors may be a little confused by all the area’s different names such as the Skicircus of Saalbach-Hinterglemm-Leogang-Fieberbrunn which covers three regions (Saalbach Hinterglemm, Saalfelden Leogang and Fieberbrunn) which then straddles the two states of Salzburgerland and Tirol.
So, keep it simple, think Skicircus and enjoy a huge ski area.
The early departure from London City made this a convenient flying visit and combined with the short transfer from Salzburg, you can be on the slopes before you know it.
If its weekend skiing you want, the Sunday return at present is into Gatwick which does leave a little logistical tinkering on the transport front. But, of course, with such a vast and diverse ski area to explore, most guests will want to stay more than a couple of days.
TRAVEL FACTS
Flight: Mark Nicholls flew from London City Airport to Salzburg on BA8479, departing at 7.15am on a Friday. British Airways (www.ba.com) has launched twice-weekly flights from London City airport to Salzburg Airport with prices from £59 one-way in Euro Traveller (economy class) and £142 one-way in Club Europe (business class). The service operates every Friday and Saturday until April 15.
Accommodation: Naturhotel Forsthofgut offers double rooms from €550 per room per night based on two sharing, visit: www.forsthofgut.at/en
For more information: Skicircus Saalbach Hinterglemm Leogang Fieberbrunn, visit:
https://skicircus.saalbach.com/en/region
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Categories: Austria