Rediscovering Adventure: Kayaking and Hiking in Norway
Hils Everitt returns to the mountainous country for a short solo break exploring the stunning fjords by kayak and enjoying some hiking in Norway too. Having visited Norway in my working life for an incredible winter adventure driving through snow-laden……
Hils Everitt returns to the mountainous country for a short solo break exploring the stunning fjords by kayak and enjoying some hiking in Norway too.
Having visited Norway in my working life for an incredible winter adventure driving through snow-laden valleys of the magnificent fjords, I always wanted to return for a spring/summer holiday with my husband; scaling some mountain peaks and kayaking along those gorgeous fjords.
It was very much on the to-do list. But then it all went pear-shaped and I sadly became an unexpected widow. My travelling since then had been restricted to ski holidays with friends and press trips for Skier & Snowboarder. But I sorely missed the adventure holiday – and so decided it was time to bite the bullet, be brave and try a short, solo trip.
Much Better Adventures has become known for being solo-friendly – 70% of clients are in fact lone travellers. It is also a perfect option for single women who want a safe and secure environment in which to indulge their outdoor passions.
And so I found myself at Bergen Airport in Norway looking for the rep holding the MBA sign in the arrivals hall. I met a party of 18 with a mix of men and women with one or two couples and a father and son. We were going to spend two days kayaking along the UNESCO-listed Nærøyfjord and a day in between hiking up the Breiskrednosi mountain. There were also some short walks, wild camping and the opportunity to swim in the fjord included in the itinerary.
All gathered together we were whisked north to Voss for a stay at the youth hostel then another coach transfer towards Gudvangen, the kayaking centre for the start of our adventure.
Travelling to the wild camp is by kayak so that required changing into wetsuits and special boots then packing just the very essentials into dry bags and waterproof camera/phone boxes. Our large party was spilt into two groups of nine. I was joined by a really lovely bunch of single guys, another single girl, one couple and the father and son. Our guide for the trip was the highly entertaining Ian from Ireland who made the safety briefing and general instruction process a delight. Having been rather nervous and feeling a little apprehensive until then I was beginning to enjoy the experience. It was all so friendly and undaunting.
This particular adventure is much sought after and a company big seller. That meant there were plenty of other groups setting off at different times and camping in different spots along the fjord and some returning from the previous adventure. This could have felt rather over-crowded, but it didn’t at all.
Ian assigned us each to various kayaks. I was teamed with Rhiannon, my fellow single girl. Once on the water and into our paddling stride, it felt like we had the whole place to ourselves. I immersed myself in the incredible scenery and feeling of calm and tranquility; only interrupted by Ian occasionally shouting instructions and the odd ferry cruising by, laden with tourists. You need a reasonably good level of fitness for this trip as it requires a degree of paddling through resistance, particularly from the wash of the ferries, plus there is some decent current at times to pull through.
After paddling for an hour or two we reached a remote pebbled beach for the lunch break. After we hauled the kayaks out of the water, Ian took us on a short pre-lunch walk to visit some spectacular waterfalls. They were extremely impressive and the noise was incredible. Lunch was a well-prepared affair served on a gingham cloth with proper plates and cutlery. This may be out in the wilds, but there was nothing basic about the hospitality.
Suitably re-fuelled, a lovely afternoon was spent on the fjord until we reached our base for the next two nights. It was an idyllic spot to pitch camp as the sun slowly started its long descent behind the mountains.
Ian set up the kitchen and wood was gathered for the campfire. This was duly lit and we enjoyed a tasty, high protein meal getting to know one another as the embers glowed and logs burned furiously. As well as an excellent guide and top raconteur, Ian is also a very handy cook and we dined in style in the most spectacular setting I could have hoped for – all huddled around the roaring fire with a beer or glass of wine.
Hiking in Norway
After a cosy night’s sleep we awoke to a hearty breakfast and prepared for a full-on day’s climbing up Breiskrednosi. Ian suggested that anyone who didn’t feel like it could opt out, but nobody did. It’s a full day’s hike, which starts from camp then gradually winds up the mountainside through lush meadows and across streams with stunning views.
There is a particularly steep section that zigzags sharply and gains a lot of height quickly through the trees. We all took it at our own pace; the younger lads romping up like mountain goats, me at my standard pole pole steady pace instilled in me on Mount Kilimanjaro.
This most strenuous part tackled, we came out above the treeline onto the snow-laden wide plateau. The late spring snow was unexpectedly quite deep in places and made progress a tad slower. Ian was often heard advising us to take care. All was safely navigated, however – apart from me unexpectedly sinking into a hole up to my knees; how we laughed – before the final little ascent to the summit at 1189m above the fjord.
I cannot stress enough the sheer beauty of the view from the summit; and admit to having a highly emotional moment as I stared down into the valley below at the deep blue fjord bordered by crystalline, sheer cliff faces rising up into the sky. It is truly breathtaking.
Much as I wanted to stay there and revel in this incredible vista, we needed to head back. What a day and what a way to rekindle my love of climbing mountains; all finished off by a short paddle from camp across the water to jump off the rocks into the fjord and have a little swim. Yes, it was freezing, but so invigorating and felt a real privilege. Ian’s tasty dinner and the wine went down especially swiftly that night.
Day three, and our last on this short trip, started by packing all the gear back into the lighter kayaks – less a fair number of wine bottles – and paddling north past more magnificent rock faces and remote waterfalls to another beauty spot lunch and a sunbathe.
The final part of the kayaking is relatively short, as by this time everyone is pretty tired and needs some energy for the journey home. Our final destination was the remote and gorgeous village of Undredal where we loaded the kayaks into the shed and made good use of the local ice cream shop and a change of clothes. It’s then a bus ride back to Gudvangen to have a shower and repack bags before heading to Bergen Airport.
I cannot recommend this trip highly enough. Rediscovering the delights of Norway, enjoying an energetic activity holiday and meeting some fantastic people was amazing. The company’s ethos is to protect wild places, and it prides itself on supporting independent, locally-owned businesses, plus the care, attention and fully professional attitude of its excellent local guides. Ian was amazing. He couldn’t have been kinder or more aware of when I needed a bit of encouragement or to be left alone in my thoughts.
This will be the first of many trips I’m sure. Much Better Adventures has a huge list of options from all over the world. I am now contemplating my next solo holiday. Maybe it’s a spring Romanian adventure, or perhaps a winter ascent up Ben Nevis, or both…?
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It was very much on the to-do list. But then it all went pear-shaped and I sadly became an unexpected widow. My travelling since then had been restricted to ski holidays with friends and press trips for Skier & Snowboarder. But I sorely missed the adventure holiday – and so decided it was time to bite the bullet, be brave and try a short, solo trip.
Travelling to the wild camp is by kayak so that required changing into wetsuits and special boots then packing just the very essentials into dry bags and waterproof camera/phone boxes. Our large party was spilt into two groups of nine. I was joined by a really lovely bunch of single guys, another single girl, one couple and the father and son. Our guide for the trip was the highly entertaining Ian from Ireland who made the safety briefing and general instruction process a delight. Having been rather nervous and feeling a little apprehensive until then I was beginning to enjoy the experience. It was all so friendly and undaunting.
After paddling for an hour or two we reached a remote pebbled beach for the lunch break. After we hauled the kayaks out of the water, Ian took us on a short pre-lunch walk to visit some spectacular waterfalls. They were extremely impressive and the noise was incredible. Lunch was a well-prepared affair served on a gingham cloth with proper plates and cutlery. This may be out in the wilds, but there was nothing basic about the hospitality.
I cannot stress enough the sheer beauty of the view from the summit; and admit to having a highly emotional moment as I stared down into the valley below at the deep blue fjord bordered by crystalline, sheer cliff faces rising up into the sky. It is truly breathtaking.
I cannot recommend this trip highly enough. Rediscovering the delights of Norway, enjoying an energetic activity holiday and meeting some fantastic people was amazing. The company’s ethos is to protect wild places, and it prides itself on supporting independent, locally-owned businesses, plus the care, attention and fully professional attitude of its excellent local guides. Ian was amazing. He couldn’t have been kinder or more aware of when I needed a bit of encouragement or to be left alone in my thoughts.
